I’m in Lestoho?

According to a training manual on secure land tenure and inheritance rights put out by Habitat for Humanity Lesotho and funded by CIDA and the German government, I’m in Lestoho. Well, on the English side anyway. They managed to get it right on the Sesotho side…luckily. I suppose worse than misspelling the country name are the contents of the document. I’m only halfway through a reasonably comprehensive tool for sharing information on land and inheritance rights in Lesotho but so far I’m not impressed. Okay, spelling errors aside, the contents are important but they are tough. Partially tough to understand with the mumbo-jumbo semi-legal speak and partially tough to understand because women cannot inherit or own land. Okay, okay they can but only as a last resort.

Under Customary Law, if the head of the household (read father/husband) dies, the eldest son inherits the land/home. If there is no son, the uncle/father’s brother gets the property. If for some reason there is no man or boy to be found, um, I’m not sure what happens, the manual doesn’t seem to say. If the heir is a minor though, the mother looks after stuff until her son is 18 but she can’t sell any of the assets, she just gets to keep track of them.

Now, there is also Civil Law in Lesotho and under this law, if a woman’s spouse dies, she gets half of the estate so long as it doesn’t amount to more than M1200, roughly $171 at today’s 7-1 exchange rate. Better than nothing? Gee I don’t know. I guess it doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s ultimately the King’s land anyway.

I’m not sure what I’m trying to convey but I suppose it is that I have been consistently bothered by gender relations here in Lesotho. As such, I would like to share the definition of marriage in Lesotho. Maybe it’s the same as the definition of marriage in Canada, which is not something I’ve ever looked into. Anyway, here is Lestoho “Marriage is a legal relationship, established by means of a state ceremony, between two and consenting persons of different sexes, obliging them to live together for life and to afford each other conjugal privileges exclusively.” How romantic. I hope one of my suitors proposes obliged shared lodging and exclusive conjugal privileges for life this Valentine’s Day. My co-workers would totally go for it. They are really pushing the prospect of a customary marriage in which I might be worth 20 cows. I say I’m asking for 40 which I've been told is completely unreasonable and unattainable. Um, yeah, thanks tips, that’s the point.

School's In!

Schools are in full swing here in Lesotho. The results from last year are out so kids know if they have passed or failed and with summer holidays over the kids have returned to the towns from their respective villages. Many kids stay with relatives near better schools if they can or are in boarding if they can afford it. The quality of schools varies widely all across Lesotho and I am getting a first hand look at both primary and high school level institutes of learning.

Part of my 'job' is to visit our sponsored kids at their respective high schools, as well is check in on our twinned primary schools to see what the current needs are. The needs at the schools are many and are varied, as are the needs of the individual children. Many wear raggedy uniforms and shoes with holes in them. Many don't get enough food at home, which adds another challenge to school in Lesotho. Aside from being hungry (which makes concentration difficult), there are anywhere from 35-65 students in a classroom, some classrooms are shared with one grade facing one way and another facing the other, often kids don't get stationery from the government until April - 2 months into the school year - I could go on but I won't.

This is a common story across the world I'm sure. Kids wanting to learn but resources being scarce. Teachers wanting to teach but not knowing where to begin. Principles and Teachers talk to us about the school needs without expectation and maybe only a little hope. We can only do what time, money and resources can afford. The good part though, is that even though life is hard people show up and that must count for something. It better count for something because I don't want to stop showing up.

I Can't Sleep

Well it's 4:18 am here and I am awake. I'm not sure if I have a lot on my mind or if it was the pesky mosquito buzzing in my ear and repeatedly biting me that has me pulled from my sleep at this hour. The mosquito is now nowhere to be found yet I know my repeated attempts on its life were unsuccessful and simply resulted in my hitting my ear over and over. Probably didn't help me doze back off either.

After going to bed with little dinner due to a lack of desire to eat (a luxury of a problem here) I have just eaten 2 fried eggs with toast, tomato and avocado (one of my occasional luxury items). Normally I would just eat plain toast at night but a friend taught me to have some substance with my meals...actually, many friends have taught me that. Anyway, I'm drinking rooibos tea with honey as well to help my aching throat, which I'm hoping is simply a result of a lack of sleep.

As the clock approaches 5 I am reminded that most people wake up at that time to start their days. Collecting water, putting it on the boil for bathing, making sorghum porridge for breakfast, getting kids ready for school, sweeping and tidying the house and then starting the commute to work.

Things have been busy at work as we have started our school visits. My counterpart, 'M'e Mampaka and I have been getting all the little details ready although I can't tell you if we're actually ready or not. We went to a school today to listen to the needs of the school, getting input from a small room full of teachers. The school itself is quite nice - rebuilt in 2009 by the government after the wind took it away. Shells of the old buildings still exist and there is hope that parts of the more sound structures left behind can be used to build a hall for assemblies, sports or events. Everyone will have to wait to see what is deemed the most urgent need and what the budget allows for.

I think I'll rest my head for the next half hour or so in case I can actually get some rest. Tomorrow (or today rather) we are visiting a rather destitute school that I've been to before. It will be quite the contrast to yesterday for our new visiting director of programs, here on her first trip to Lesotho.

What Can I Say?

Things are hectic.

It's a busy busy time.

I have not recovered from working 7 days straight to ensure our Leadership Camp went off without a hitch.

Of course there were many hitches.

It was a great time but there were disappointments that have been tough to process.

You can ask me about them some time.

The kids were great though. So happy to be there. Not quite understanding the effort it takes from ALL staff members, they want it to run for another week. Trust me, 1 week is enough. HL couldn't afford a 2nd week even if it wanted to.

I think I put on weight from all the papa I ate. And by 'I think', I mean I know. It was a stressful week and now we're hitting the ground running. 2011 my friends is going to be busy busy busy.

Did I mention I got to visit with my old Masotho friend from UCT/Zulu class the day before I went back to work? That was quite nice.

I could use another vacation...a couple of Savannah's will have to do.

Hayo Mowbray Kaap, Caaap Tiooown

Top Cape Town Moments of 2010

Interaction with Taxi Driver on the Cape Town to Wynberg route – After the driver has been hitting on me for a few minutes, most of which was inaudible due to his mouthful of gold teeth, I notice a potential wedding ring ‘um, so hey are you married?’ – what? Uh no, this? This is just to keep the ladies away. The women can be crazy sometimes. ‘Riiiiight, women can be crazy. So yeah, don’t worry, I’ll totally look for you along this route again.’

Lattes every day – And my favourite? A mocha-latte that I got in Sea Point, which involved a ball of chocolate at the bottom of my glass and a separate jug of espresso and steamed milk for me to pour over the chocolate to melt. It was amazing. Primi something or other had a great machiato-latte, chock full of caffeine and deliciousness that I will likely dream about just now.

Dinner with Tara and Mr. Boston – Oh Mr. Boston. Tara met him at a coffee shop and he seemed excited to talk to someone from his part of the world. So he insisted on taking her out to dinner and she invited me along to cramp his style. We went for delicious Ethiopian food. The highlight was when he chose the wine – Faux crystal as I’ve taken to calling it – he opted for a sparkling wine to go with the dinner. It was weird. It was hilarious. It took everything I had not to openly laugh. Maybe you had to be there but I think you know me well enough to also see the humour in me being in a situation where someone orders ‘champagne’ to go with dinner. Tara couldn’t look at me for fear of me rolling my eyes or her laughing. He paid for the whole meal so really, no complaints. He’s just a young man caught up in living the ex-pat high life in Cape Town. Mention of the ‘all-white’ New Year’s Eve party he was attending at Caprice in Camps Bay was another great moment – no, no, no, you have to wear all white. Ack, shame.

Surprise Christmas Gift – As I woke up at 3:45 am to get my free ride to Bloemfontein, I spotted a wrapped package on the table through my still blurry eyes. I read the nice Merry Christmas note attached from Tara and carefully opened the package as tradition at the MacDonald household would have it. Gumboots!!! What a thoughtful and wonderful gift. It’s been raining lots here in Hlotse so I will no doubt be using them soon. Now I also have to learn the traditional Gumboot dance.

Other great Cape Town moments include swimming in the ocean, sitting on the beach with friends, listening to friends sing From This Moment by Shania Twain over and over and over again (Shanya Twain is how it was pronounced), drinking a glass of wine atop a balcony overlooking Long street (I believe the location was formerly my favourite ‘club’ to go to, the name of which I cannot remember), running into Ida in a coffee shop, eating at Royale and generally just being around surrogate family and old friends.

Hiking Lion’s Head was amazing too. It was the perfect day, the view was amazing and the hike was fun! And my knee didn't mind it that much.

Until next time Cape Town

Bliggity Bloggity

Happy New Year everyone. 2011 is most likely going to be a great year. It seems like a great number for a year and so it is on this which I am basing my prediction. Also, the great music I bought in Cape Town is making me happy. I covered all my bases, new Tumi and the Volume album, Tumi solo album, latest Freshly Ground (of recent Shakira/Waka Waka World Cup fame in case you missed the memo), some reggae from Lucky Dube and of course, some house music so I can really start integrating into Basotho culture.

I am sitting here on New Year’s Day, listening to music, catching up on emails and drinking a beer. Why not? It’s the last of my holidays for a while. Monday is going to come quickly and things are going to be hectic (the director is in town and our camp starts tuesday) so I’m just keeping up the relaxed Cape Town vibe going as long as I can.

Also I managed to break my feet in Cape Town. My left in particular. I walked with my friend from town all the way to Camps Bay. It’s far, really far – like over an hour for sure, maybe two and I was wearing flip flops. I’d already been walking all day so now I have a swollen foot to show for it. I waited 2 hours for my friend who had repeatedly assured me he was on his way – not so. I was giving up when BAM, I took a last look around the train station and there he was. I was so happy to see him that all was forgiven and forgotten. We walked and talked for hours along the streets of Cape Town. It was a grand reunion and I can’t even explain why but it had me smiling a lot.

I also got to see my dear friend Ida. Ran into her by chance, in a city of 4 million. Okay I was in her hood but still, if I hadn’t wandered into that small coffee shop I would not have seen that familiar face. Um if you’re wondering, both the new Tumi and the Volume album and the Freshly Ground album are REALLY good.

I’m going to end this and write again soon cause I have a lot to say about Cape Town and being back in Lesotho. Happy, happy to be back even if it is to the land of no lattes.

Holler

House

Hate it or love it, I can't help but move to House music. It's pretty much the music of choice in both Lesotho and South Africa and I've finally got some of the big hits in my hot little hands. Yebo! Thanks to a friend from Gugs, I've got a great mix and I'm listening right now, bopping my head in a way that will not build my street cred.

Whatever, so what if people laugh when I try the Puma or the Sika Lekhekhe - meaning cut the cake which is a euphemism for something or other. If you watch the linked video - it's the dance done during the chorus - the part where it looks like the dancers are hashing a line up and down their leg? Obviously I'm really good at it...

I don't actually know that song but my favourite right now is Umilo. Um don't watch the whole video for the last song. I didn't make it. But I can cruise up and down the streets of Cape Town to this song or the streets of Hlotse, as well. Falling within House is a genre called Kwaito and as the song says, it's African made.

I'm talking about House music because my Christmas afternoon and evening were spent with a friend in the township of Guguletho and house was everywhere. I have felt welcome at every family gathering I have crashed, which is a great great feeling. Anyway I'm working on my hands free whistle to accompany my new moves and add to inherent sense of rhythm...

See the Lion? I'm FINALLY hiking the peak on the left tomorrow. My avid followers will remember this as something I was to do 2 years ago.

Welcome Home

Being welcomed home is a really great feeling. It's a nice sentiment and when said with real feeling, it can mean a lot. I arrived back in Cape Town on Sunday. I was quite tired. Having gotten up at 3:45 am to get a ride to Bloemfontein on Saturday I spent the day feeling totally out of it. Throw in the heat of the non-mountainous Free State and a day involving much driving around from this place to that place - looking for construction material and a PS2 - and I felt downright disoriented. The final saga involved racing to get a new SIM card for SA, desperately trying to find the tourist information centre (and finding it closed at 2 on a Saturday), driving to the suburbs of Bloemfontein to discover the address I had for the backpackers I was to stay at was now for a private residence, my phone still not being activated and then searching for an affordable alternative place to stay.

I was stressed. Luckily my co-worker stayed calm, although I could tell he was not exactly happy. Anyway, people were nice to me and tried to help. I found a place to stay at about triple the rate I had wanted. When it was discovered I was actually looking for something cheaper, the young woman called a backpackers and booked me in for cheap cheap. I was the only guest there that night and was treated to some delicious spaghetti bolognese made by a retired doctor with 3 medical degrees (including one from McMaster), over 300 horses, probably a private jet, a yacht, a graduate of Cordon Bleu cooking school (or maybe just some classes) and the holder of a world championship in 'matches'. It was delicious and I ate a GIANT plate of the spaghetti - I mean giant.

But I digress...in one of my biggest digressions ever.

When I arrived in Cape Town, I took a shuttle to Tony and Lili's house, not wanting the hassle of public transit. I spent some time catching up with Tony and Dominic (Lili was at a baby shower) and then started to slowly crash on the couch. As I settled down for a nap, Tony picked up a blanket, put it over me and said 'welcome home'.

The sentiment was simple yet genuine and I do feel welcomed home.

Cape Town

My View

The Dog - Luna - she can now 'sit'

'nuf said

Have I Told You Lately

That people seem to like Rod Stewart here?

Today, I jumped at the chance to get a free ride to Lesotho's capital, Maseru. The big city!! Ntate Semela was driving there to pick up some more tiles and cement for the new centre and I was just finishing up with the gender conference when he asked if I wanted to join him. He was taking 4 of the Gender Conference participants to Maseru to catch their bus home and I suspect he was looking for some non-teenage company.

Having heard rumours of coffee shops and a Pick 'N Pay and with not much to do with my Sunday I hopped in the car and went. It's about an hour or so drive from Hltose to Maseru and it was nice to get to look around Lesotho as we travelled from the Foothills to the Lowlands. Maseru is not a remarkable town. It is bigger, busier, has robots and more stuff in general. We dropped the girls at the appropriate taxi rank, got what we needed from a Home Depot-esque DIY store and headed for the mall.

It was weird. It's always shocking for me to go into places that seem like you might find them at home. Escalators, a movie theatre, hair salons, kiosks, elevators and just that general mall feel. We went into the massive Pick 'N Pay and not wanting to waste much time, just grabbed a few things - including the very hard to come by, Inside Story (that one was for you Liz). As we walked out, I kept looking around as though I'd landed on the moon. I knew I couldn't pass up the chance at a latte so I asked Semela if there was a coffee shop. YES! was his reply. No he didn't actually exclaim his reply at all but the point of the story is I got a latte and it was delicious and hot and strong and so tasty.

I'll write about the gender conference another time...or you can check out Tara's write up on the other blog - internsinlesotho.blogspot.com - for now, I'm just living in the moment of my latte.

Oh and I can't get Rod out of my head since we must have been listening to his greatest hits CD the whole ride back. (No Georgie Boy that I noticed, sorry Karl).