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| Main Street of Bunda |
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| Sweetly Decorated Passenger Bike |
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| Walking Down Bunda Main Street |
Monday, October 27, 2014
Hi There
Thanks for showing up! I totally appreciate your readership.
I actually do. This sounds sarcastic but it’s not and I can definitely explain
my tone. It’s because I just had 1.5 beers on not an empty stomach but
certainly not on a full stomach. Okay, on a 2 chiapati and 1 stoney’s ginger
beer stomach. That combined with the fact that I spent most of today (Sunday
when I’m writing this) inside working on a proposal has got me feeling sassy.
I
did go outside for a couple of walks today and walks around Bunda town (a small
town for sure) as a white person has inspired the following lists (and further
contributed to my sassiness).
Top 5 things you can yell out to me that I will not respond
to:
1. Hey baby – yup, definitely not going to reply to that
2. I love you – still really not going to get me to turn my head
3. Hey, someone over here wants to talk to you – really? Someone in general or someone I know? Oh right, someone in general, I’m gonna take a pass.
4. Mzungu/Wazungu – means white person or white people – this one is a grey area – if it’s kids, there is a chance I’ll reply or smile or say Mambo – which means what’s up? – but really I try to just keep walking and not look around. My boss sometimes responds with moAfrica – which was like our sometimes tried tactic in Lesotho – replying with Masotho! – people really hate it…but somehow it doesn’t seem to get the point across.
5. Hey you! – I don’t know, I wouldn’t respond to this at home so I’m not going to here
1. Hey baby – yup, definitely not going to reply to that
2. I love you – still really not going to get me to turn my head
3. Hey, someone over here wants to talk to you – really? Someone in general or someone I know? Oh right, someone in general, I’m gonna take a pass.
4. Mzungu/Wazungu – means white person or white people – this one is a grey area – if it’s kids, there is a chance I’ll reply or smile or say Mambo – which means what’s up? – but really I try to just keep walking and not look around. My boss sometimes responds with moAfrica – which was like our sometimes tried tactic in Lesotho – replying with Masotho! – people really hate it…but somehow it doesn’t seem to get the point across.
5. Hey you! – I don’t know, I wouldn’t respond to this at home so I’m not going to here
Top 5 things you can yell out to me that stand a chance
(turns out there are 6):
1. Hey, hi! – this happened this evening from a guy driving by on a boda boda aka motorbike so there really wasn’t time to respond but was pretty funny and reasonable.
2. Good morning/Good afternoon – especially coming from kids (if they get the time of day right) I’ll probably engage.
3. Hello my sister – this seems like a respectful greeting and I can’t ignore everybody so I’ll often go for it…and likely regret it shortly after because my reply tends to be met with a version of hey baby or a string of Kiswahili words that I do not understand but suggest I should stick around and hang out and often include mazungu.
4. Rafiki – this means friend and well okay fine who can resist responding to a holler out of ‘friend!’?/a character from the lion king (note: you know more Swahili than you think). Not me apparently. So far it hasn’t ended too badly.
5. Selama – The Kiswahili version of Selam – a perfectly respectful way to greet someone
Habari – simply and respectfully ‘how are you?’ – this one takes me a minute sometimes though so I often accidently ignore/don’t respond to people who say this to me – I’m on the case now though so can respond with ‘nzuri’ (good) when I’m ready.
1. Hey, hi! – this happened this evening from a guy driving by on a boda boda aka motorbike so there really wasn’t time to respond but was pretty funny and reasonable.
2. Good morning/Good afternoon – especially coming from kids (if they get the time of day right) I’ll probably engage.
3. Hello my sister – this seems like a respectful greeting and I can’t ignore everybody so I’ll often go for it…and likely regret it shortly after because my reply tends to be met with a version of hey baby or a string of Kiswahili words that I do not understand but suggest I should stick around and hang out and often include mazungu.
4. Rafiki – this means friend and well okay fine who can resist responding to a holler out of ‘friend!’?/a character from the lion king (note: you know more Swahili than you think). Not me apparently. So far it hasn’t ended too badly.
5. Selama – The Kiswahili version of Selam – a perfectly respectful way to greet someone
Habari – simply and respectfully ‘how are you?’ – this one takes me a minute sometimes though so I often accidently ignore/don’t respond to people who say this to me – I’m on the case now though so can respond with ‘nzuri’ (good) when I’m ready.
This list really sounds pretentious now – like I am deciding
who deserves a response and who does not and that whether I do respond is
actually important to people. I guess it’s really about my experience being in
a place where I stand out and how best to handle it. I don’t want to encourage
people to yell stuff at anyone who looks different (is white) and I also don’t
want to be rude. I pretty much apply the same rules here as I do at home – if
you’re a guy and you’re yelling stuff at me or whistling at me, I’m not going
to turn my head. If you’re an older lady or man, I’ll give you a polite nod,
maybe a smile and possibly a ‘habari’ or ‘selama’ in respectful greeting –
whether you have done so or not (this often elicits a whole lot of nothing). If
you’re a kid or a gang of kids, totally depends on my mood. Girls have a better
shot because in my mind and experience they get ignored a lot more anyway so if
we can smile at each other then sure, why not. Most of this whole exercise with
all ages and sexes results in a lot of laughs in my general direction.
As a young Ghanaian high schooler in suburban Canada once said to a
teacher friend of mine “I’m just trying to blend in.” It’s totally going aces.
*Side story – in Ethiopia I get called farenji (evolved from
French) or China!! Because the Chinese are doing some major road and
electricity building in the part of the country where CPAR works. (Other Asians
are not differentiated so maybe they dislike being called ‘China’ more than I
do – I don’t dislike it that much, it’s just incorrect).
Hopefully photos to follow...internet here is not on my team.
Wednesday, October 22, 2014
Until Next Time Ethiopia
Tonight is my last night in Addis (aside from the 2 more times I'll have to fly through here to get to Malawi and then home again). I think maybe I always start to feel sad when I have to leave a place even when 5 days ago I might have been thinking/feeling 'get me the heck out of here.' Leaving the office today, saying goodbye to my colleague and really I think I can say friend, Aklilu, felt sad. He and Endris (the CPAR chief mechanic and driver) have been so good to us. Acting as chauffeurs and translators. Interpreters and food orders. Water buyers and Teddy Afro players. Answerers of millions of questions. They have been our go to guys so it is sad to leave them and difficult to express our (why am I talking about our?) my gratitude towards them.
I was fortunate enough this time, on this trip, to make it to Tamoca coffee. The mecca of the macchiato. I'm putting in a photo that will probably make you mad at me rather than happy for me. I didn't think we would get here because we had stuff to do at the office and in the end we went after work (poor Endris driving through awful Addis traffic so a couple of ferenjis could buy cheap delicious coffee). Granted, he did find parking and joined us inside so he got a macchiato out of the deal at least...there was also coverage of the shooting in Ottawa on the news - CNN so it was all a strange contrast. [I also heard that someone is using this as an excuse to skip out on a citizenship ceremony with Malala...who only happened to survive getting shot in the face in her attempt to get an education. It just kind of adds to some interesting information we heard from a project partner about how Canadian taxpayers money is being spent to court wealthy extractive industry jerks and combined with that may have resulted in my subconscious typing of democracy as democrazy]
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That's not the real point. This is - I've been so well taken care of by my colleagues, seen such amazing things [both in the good way and in the harsh reality way] that it makes me sad to leave. I never really know who will be here next time (if there is a next time) and how things will go. I am excited to head to Tanzania where I made some good connections with colleagues too so that at least is something to look forward to.
But basically I have the Spice Girls song 'Goodbye' stuck in my head, as well as the parody song some friends and I wrote to Coldplay's Fix You, and don't really want to go to bed because it will bring tomorrow and tomorrow I will leave Ethiopia (at least I don't have to dodge shiro or tibs anymore).
Incoherent babble? I can teach that course!
I was fortunate enough this time, on this trip, to make it to Tamoca coffee. The mecca of the macchiato. I'm putting in a photo that will probably make you mad at me rather than happy for me. I didn't think we would get here because we had stuff to do at the office and in the end we went after work (poor Endris driving through awful Addis traffic so a couple of ferenjis could buy cheap delicious coffee). Granted, he did find parking and joined us inside so he got a macchiato out of the deal at least...there was also coverage of the shooting in Ottawa on the news - CNN so it was all a strange contrast. [I also heard that someone is using this as an excuse to skip out on a citizenship ceremony with Malala...who only happened to survive getting shot in the face in her attempt to get an education. It just kind of adds to some interesting information we heard from a project partner about how Canadian taxpayers money is being spent to court wealthy extractive industry jerks and combined with that may have resulted in my subconscious typing of democracy as democrazy]
Anyway, here is the point. I got an amazing macchiato here today.
The best one around.
That's not the real point. This is - I've been so well taken care of by my colleagues, seen such amazing things [both in the good way and in the harsh reality way] that it makes me sad to leave. I never really know who will be here next time (if there is a next time) and how things will go. I am excited to head to Tanzania where I made some good connections with colleagues too so that at least is something to look forward to.
But basically I have the Spice Girls song 'Goodbye' stuck in my head, as well as the parody song some friends and I wrote to Coldplay's Fix You, and don't really want to go to bed because it will bring tomorrow and tomorrow I will leave Ethiopia (at least I don't have to dodge shiro or tibs anymore).
Incoherent babble? I can teach that course!
Tuesday, October 21, 2014
Oh also
I think I meant development 'can' work
and that I wish there was a better word for contributing to positive change than 'development' but at this point it seems the lesser of many evils my brain can come up with
and that I wish there was a better word for contributing to positive change than 'development' but at this point it seems the lesser of many evils my brain can come up with
Yes People Are Talking About Ebola Here Too
I think I mentioned I had my temperature taken upon arrival at Bole International Airport in Addis. If not, well I did. It's on the news here, well the BBC news that I can understand. There are UN reports circulating about it. The keys are to practice ABC - avoid body contact - and not to panic. It's not air born after all.
Here is an interesting blog I read related to American (and quite likely Canadian) coverage of the Ebola outbreak.
http://www.washingtonpost.com/blogs/monkey-cage/wp/2014/08/25/othering-ebola-and-the-history-and-politics-of-pointing-at-immigrants-as-potential-disease-vectors/
I know people working in West Africa in support of containing and fighting the Ebola outbreak. It is a difficult reality that people are faced with. The ABC protocol is strict - no hugging anyone at any time. That's not an easy thing when you are in a difficult situation. But anyway, I recommend the article above for both it's reference to Ebola and our own practices of othering and perceptions of unknown people and places.
Here is an interesting blog I read related to American (and quite likely Canadian) coverage of the Ebola outbreak.
http://www.washingtonpost.com/blogs/monkey-cage/wp/2014/08/25/othering-ebola-and-the-history-and-politics-of-pointing-at-immigrants-as-potential-disease-vectors/
I know people working in West Africa in support of containing and fighting the Ebola outbreak. It is a difficult reality that people are faced with. The ABC protocol is strict - no hugging anyone at any time. That's not an easy thing when you are in a difficult situation. But anyway, I recommend the article above for both it's reference to Ebola and our own practices of othering and perceptions of unknown people and places.
Monday, October 20, 2014
Back in Addis
Well most people out there already know I'm back in Addis because through the wonderful world of modern technology I have been able to reach out to say 'hey' in some way. Right, so um, I guess I'm back from the 'field'. I still don't really know what to say. I'm supposed to blog for work and every time I try to write something it just seems to miss the mark. How to share something interesting, meaningful and important without underselling it? I honestly have no clue. Blogging for work...well we all know how that went down over in Lesotho (if you don't know, Tara and my mandatory got shut down for being too honest and containing too few stories about stupid things like remembering to carry your own toilet paper, grocery shopping, and taking public transit).
But anyway, what can I write here now. I had shiro tegabino for 9 meals - dinner, lunch and dinner, lunch and dinner, lunch and dinner, lunch and dinner. And then I threw it all up. Whoops. Should have had the goat tibs specially made at the request of the ferenjis for the CPAR staff dinner in Dibate. I had been cocky enough to think I'd make it out of Ethiopia without an illness this time. So far I am 3 for 3. BUT the first time was just a weird bad cold and this time I made it an entire week without getting ill and my sickness didn't interfere with work, so there you go.
I'm feeling much better and was able to have an avocado juice/smoothie what what this morning. Dang they are so good. I missed the best food day yesterday which involved said avocado juice and this egg pizza with honey. Maybe it sounds gross but it is absolutely not. Anyway, I'm mostly back on track. I also went all of yesterday without coffee...the first time in probably over a year. I had a headache as a consequence.
Does it seem weird that I am writing so much about food when much of our images of Ethiopia are about famine? Yeah it seems weird to me too, especially since our projects here are about food security. Um I can say the good news is, our projects are working. I met with a bunch of people who are applying improved farming practices and bam, they are growing lots more food so that is a great thing. I also met with a group of women who were part of a PD Hearth session - they were identified because their children under 2 years of age were suffering from malnutrition. Then they come together at someone's home for a couple of hours for 12 days straight. They learn about using locally available nutritious foods and cook together and feed their kids together. The kids get weighed daily and at the end of 12 days if they are up enough weight and in the right weight category, they graduate. If not, they do it again for another 12 days. This has really worked because of the emphasis on using foods that are available, common and accessible. and from hosting the sessions at someone's house, using cooking equipment that is there and having each woman contribute some of the food used and do some of the cooking. I'll put in a photo for you. But I guess the point is, development can work. So let's say I'm inspired or hopeful or grateful or something and I will likely continue to blog about food, because one way or another, it's common to us all.
This is why I'm never going to come up with a suitable blog for work...the ramblings of a wandering ex-pat are not suitable for the public eye.
But anyway, what can I write here now. I had shiro tegabino for 9 meals - dinner, lunch and dinner, lunch and dinner, lunch and dinner, lunch and dinner. And then I threw it all up. Whoops. Should have had the goat tibs specially made at the request of the ferenjis for the CPAR staff dinner in Dibate. I had been cocky enough to think I'd make it out of Ethiopia without an illness this time. So far I am 3 for 3. BUT the first time was just a weird bad cold and this time I made it an entire week without getting ill and my sickness didn't interfere with work, so there you go.
I'm feeling much better and was able to have an avocado juice/smoothie what what this morning. Dang they are so good. I missed the best food day yesterday which involved said avocado juice and this egg pizza with honey. Maybe it sounds gross but it is absolutely not. Anyway, I'm mostly back on track. I also went all of yesterday without coffee...the first time in probably over a year. I had a headache as a consequence.
Does it seem weird that I am writing so much about food when much of our images of Ethiopia are about famine? Yeah it seems weird to me too, especially since our projects here are about food security. Um I can say the good news is, our projects are working. I met with a bunch of people who are applying improved farming practices and bam, they are growing lots more food so that is a great thing. I also met with a group of women who were part of a PD Hearth session - they were identified because their children under 2 years of age were suffering from malnutrition. Then they come together at someone's home for a couple of hours for 12 days straight. They learn about using locally available nutritious foods and cook together and feed their kids together. The kids get weighed daily and at the end of 12 days if they are up enough weight and in the right weight category, they graduate. If not, they do it again for another 12 days. This has really worked because of the emphasis on using foods that are available, common and accessible. and from hosting the sessions at someone's house, using cooking equipment that is there and having each woman contribute some of the food used and do some of the cooking. I'll put in a photo for you. But I guess the point is, development can work. So let's say I'm inspired or hopeful or grateful or something and I will likely continue to blog about food, because one way or another, it's common to us all.
This is why I'm never going to come up with a suitable blog for work...the ramblings of a wandering ex-pat are not suitable for the public eye.
This woman gives her little guy a post-feeding wash down!
This is in Guba, Benishangul-Gumuz Region, about I don't know 30 km from the Sudan border.
Thursday, October 16, 2014
Don't feel like writing so...
Here are a couple of visuals from today. I hope I can post this in time. We started with coffee (buna). Delicious in Guba. Then we got stuck in the mud, in Icid Kebele, Guba, Beninshangul-Gumuz Region. Then when we got unstuck, we met with some women farmers farming sesame together. I have many mosquito bites already. Oy. Bed time for Bonzo. Oh I am in a town called Beles. The electricity is out in the town but there is a generator on and I am using an internet stick to connect. The stars are beautiful.
Sunday, October 12, 2014
Ethiopia Take 3
I'm feeling pretty luck that I can even have a blog titled that. This is now my third year in a row travelling to Ethiopia for work. It actually feels kind of familiar this time. I'm staying in the same place that I did last November and went for lunch with my colleague at a restaurant I'd been to once before.
The direct flight to Addis Ababa was in fact, as advertised this time. 13 hours later + 1 sitting on the tarmac with no explanation as to why we weren't going anywhere and boom! I landed in Ethiopia. Air travel never ceases to amaze me. So here I am in cool but sunny, dusty Addis Ababa. I've had an ambo fizzy water and a macchiato already. I've sampled a small dose of tibs and paid too much for a taxi but what are you gonna do?
I'm in some massive suite with 2 tvs and 2 couches, and even a kitchen. I'm only here for one night though before we hit the road! That is why I'm writing now, taking advantage of the internet while I have it. I've also been using whats app as some of you know, which is really cool!! I'm glad I brought my phone along - keeping me connected for one more day.
Now that I'm here, I'm pretty glad. It was so great to see my colleague once again and it's going to be really good getting into the areas where our projects are. I feel way less prepared this time around but maybe will coast on the fact that my boss will be along for the ride. I'm pretty tired after about 4 hours of sleep on the plane and my stomach feels wonky - only in that jet lag, fatigue, where am I? confused kind of way.
Okay, really don't have much to say at this point other than I'm here. Keep in touch. I should have internet again next weekend or so.
Travelling Mac
Oh one more thing. We were screened for Ebola at the airport - they had some booths set up. In one line you walked by and someone wearing a little mouth mask pointed a temperature thing at your forehead - picture a very small clocking gun for speeding or pitching. And in the other line you stood in front of a screen and it looked like they took your photo...I did the forehead beam and kept walking. It was really actually quite sad to see because although Ebola is not in Ethiopia, it brought to reality the severity of the ongoing challenges of fighting the disease.
The direct flight to Addis Ababa was in fact, as advertised this time. 13 hours later + 1 sitting on the tarmac with no explanation as to why we weren't going anywhere and boom! I landed in Ethiopia. Air travel never ceases to amaze me. So here I am in cool but sunny, dusty Addis Ababa. I've had an ambo fizzy water and a macchiato already. I've sampled a small dose of tibs and paid too much for a taxi but what are you gonna do?
I'm in some massive suite with 2 tvs and 2 couches, and even a kitchen. I'm only here for one night though before we hit the road! That is why I'm writing now, taking advantage of the internet while I have it. I've also been using whats app as some of you know, which is really cool!! I'm glad I brought my phone along - keeping me connected for one more day.
Now that I'm here, I'm pretty glad. It was so great to see my colleague once again and it's going to be really good getting into the areas where our projects are. I feel way less prepared this time around but maybe will coast on the fact that my boss will be along for the ride. I'm pretty tired after about 4 hours of sleep on the plane and my stomach feels wonky - only in that jet lag, fatigue, where am I? confused kind of way.
Okay, really don't have much to say at this point other than I'm here. Keep in touch. I should have internet again next weekend or so.
Travelling Mac
Oh one more thing. We were screened for Ebola at the airport - they had some booths set up. In one line you walked by and someone wearing a little mouth mask pointed a temperature thing at your forehead - picture a very small clocking gun for speeding or pitching. And in the other line you stood in front of a screen and it looked like they took your photo...I did the forehead beam and kept walking. It was really actually quite sad to see because although Ebola is not in Ethiopia, it brought to reality the severity of the ongoing challenges of fighting the disease.
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