Rainy Season Dry Season

I know some of you said you didn't want to see this but here is the river after the rainy season when I was in Ethiopia trying to get to Almehal last year - in October...

And here it is on this trip when I was there at the end of the dry season.

This isn't really an effect of climate change although it is causing serious problems for farmers in this area. This just happens to be just another challenge of living in this area. During the rainy season we saw a passenger bus heading this way and they had to turn back because the water levels were too high to cross. It means this area can be cut off from certain services during the rainy season. In the dry season, it means water is a serious challenge, more so than usual. It's a question that always gets asked and things often come back to - without water, how can we wash our hands, water our crops to grow our food, hydrate ourselves when working in the fields and so on. As always, I have nothing useful to reply. 

Street Work

In and around Ethiopia, mainly in cities and large towns, it's not uncommon to get asked for money. In downtown Addis begging is very prevalent. As it does here in Toronto, it always makes me uncomfortable. I wouldn't say I'm more of a target because I'm a foreigner, I think most people walking around get asked for money. I do seem to get noticed more but I've seen plenty of Ethiopians give change or small bills. For the most part, I think to myself that I won't do it, I don't do it here (not often) so let me just not do it there. This will be my principle.

It seems easier to support someone with a small trade rather than just begging. I'll outline a few of the different options.

It seems that if you are a boy or girl between the ages of 5-10, you might sell gum (knock off Juicy Fruit called Banana mainly - yes, it's juicy fruit is banana flavoured...it is, I'm telling you it is), and kleenex packets. You may also sell groundnuts, in packets or loose, or other nuts and beans. These goods, I succumb to purchasing from time to time. You can buy a pack of gum or just a stick. I bought 2 packs for 50 cents from a young girl and well, I guess it was a big sale.

Once you move up from selling gum, it seems the boys at least, graduate to shoe shining. I actually have no idea if this is a real progression, this is just my observation based on age and the types of street work I see. I am a sucker for a good shoe shine in Ethiopia. Never have I ever had my shoes shined in Canada, but they do an amazing job in Ethiopia, it's very cheap, and well, when you have dirty shoes, it's kind of disrespectful. I usually overpay because 25 cents for a shoe shine really doesn't seem fair. I got my boots and my running shoes cleaned up and they are like new. I was disproportionately happy about the job done on my high tops, I actually jumped into the air.

Somewhere in between is the mother-child combination, which is for kids too young to sell gum. It's pretty heartbreaking. The mother will ask first and if you decline, the young child usually follows you for quite some time. I am spared seeing too much of this when I get driven around but when I am out for a walk, it is hard to ignore. If you're driving in downtown Addis though, traffic is often at a standstill and people asking for money are very common. Many of the people begging have physical disabilities - for anyone who is under the impression that polio has been eradicated, come to Addis and you will see that is entirely not true.

If you're passing through a commuter town, where buses go through, you will also see mostly women selling kolo - a sort of roasted barley, peanut, chick pea mix that is quite delicious. You can buy it buy the scoopful - like groundnuts as well. Sometimes other fruit and food items are sold but it depends on the season. Perhaps the women who were selling gum but do not become shoe shiners (I've never seen a female shoe shiner) become women who serve in small restaurants or sell coffee. You can get coffee everywhere, come to think of it, just about as common to see a small coffee stand as it is to see an opportunity for a shoe shine.

Of course, there is also the more, um, well traditional street work. After having dinner with my old boss, we were in a taxi heading home and he said "Ah we're in Chechenya" and I said "What? We are? How do you know?" and he said "The prostitutes, don't you see them everywhere?" I replied, "Um no." and then he said "There, there, there, there" - "Stop stop stop, yes I see them okay, yes... Oh there's that pizza place we ate at a few trips ago."

There are lots of things to take in and observe, and ignore and try to forget. Ethiopia is not a place where you feel taken advantage of in a way I have in other places. The foreigner price doesn't often exist (exception is private taxis) - but for a shoe shine, or a pack of gum, where I personally think they should jack up the price for me at least a little, they don't.

Sorry if this post is well, I don't know what it is. It feels scattered and I'm not sure what I'm trying to say. I don't think I have a point, other than to share.

Here is evidence of the shoe shining handy work.

Before

After

Return of the Mac....or Waiting in Vain...or Hold On, We're Going Home

As many of you may already know, I have decided to cut my trip short and come home. I'm actually en route right now. Stuck in Rome actually. Apparently there were mechanical issues that they thought they could fix quickly but after 3 hours waiting in the plane, they finally let us off. This was mostly good but required a lot of to and fro, security check, this gate, that gate, no food vouchers. I scored free hot water so made one of my Starbucks instant coffees. It's the only time Starbucks will do.

Anyway, the long work hours, tough travel, extreme heat, and on again off again sickness made me decide to cut Tanzania out. It would have been useful to be there but may have pushed me over the edge. Plus, I couldn't stop thinking about the ice cream cake in my freezer.

I actually felt so happy making the decision to come home so I know it's the right one. I hope I can find a way to work with the Tz team and maybe go there another time. I wouldn't have been able to give them my best if o went now.

I'll try to write a few more posts if I can maintain readership. I am always composing entries in my mind but they don't always wind up getting typed. Or you can ask me questions when you see me.

Let me try to post a picture. We may get to board soon.... But then again they've been saying that for over an hour. Just another 8 hour and 50 minute flight and I'll be there!

Classic butcher...no refrigeration. Yes that's beef hanging out in there.

Backdrop for coffee at a stop in the drive back to Addis. Endris, the best driver ever AMD coffee connoisseur, was not impressed with the weak-ish/thin coffee served up.

Street scene from my hotel in Addis

Ethio Star Hotel in Bahir dar (where I stayed)

Cool tree in Bahir dar

Amazing road conditions to and from Guba

Back in Addis

So it's pretty awkward when you're spending the day in your room working and the staff come to clean your room and when you try to say it's okay, you don't have to, well you fail to communicate effectively so they just clean around you.

Just sayin'

I did have this great macchiato and this fine pancake for breakfast though so it's not ALL awkward moments.

And also, for any long time readers, I believe in the past I have mentioned the Bob Marley monument that was near my hotel. I NEVER understood it because well up until this visit the actual Bob Marley statue part wasn't there. I think I posted a photo of the black part that he is standing on - it says One Love in English, French, Amharic and I'm betting on Mandarin. Anyway, there he is at last in all his glory. Makes way more sense now. 

You know the history here yes? The Rastafari movement emerged in Jamaica but following the coronation of the Ethiopian Emperor Haile Selassie I. Ras coming from his title and Tafari coming from Haile Selassie's original name - Tafari Makonnen. There is loads more info out there if you like but anyway, that's my coles notes wikipedia version. Bob Marley and Reggae are reasonably big here, especially when you consider the typical lack of interest in non-Ethiopian culture (There is WAY less American pop music and tv here than say in Lesotho or Tanzania or South Africa.) 

Some photos

Big sky

The roads were packed - Saturday is a common market day so everyone was headed out to buy or sell!

Snapping pics from the car - home by the side of the road.

Hit the road early - the sun cast a nice shadow

Lake Tana - Panorama

No Horning!

Lake Tana - Bahir Dar

GUBA!!

11 Kilometres from Sudan

Yesterday I finally got to go to the town of Almehal, about 50 km from Guba. The first time we tried to go there I was told there was a security issue around the Great Renaissance Dam and it wasn't safe to travel. The next time it was the rainy season so the river was in full swing and we couldn't cross. I was starting to get suspicious.

Well this time we went. It was quite the journey. I have photos of the river from this time and the last time. Maybe I'll post them to show the difference. Being the dry season, there is no evidence of a river. The security issue I still don't get as Almehal is not that close to the Dam, but oh well. What it is close to is Sudan. Apparently because of the proximity, on market days, people come to and fro - no need to show a passport, just come for the market, buy or sell your goods and return home. Really, the borders were arbitrarily drawn anyway.

11 kilometres from Sudan is where I learned I have a good shot of getting into Heaven. At least according to Elias, one of the members of a crop cooperative that is being supported by one of our projects. He is a real inspiration, taking on the double role of secretary and accountant for the group of 118. Apparently some of the other executive committee members have been slacking so it's been up to Elias and Ambo to run the show. We met with about 11 group members and as is often the case, their gratitude for the support is conveyed. I typically try to throw this back to them, as really, they are the ones working hard and using the opportunity to make a change. This group is selling sesame collectively and getting involved in some other activities ton increase their income and change their lot in life.

Anyway, back to Heaven - Elias directed the following towards me (translated and scratch note taken) - you come from Canada, a well-educated country and you have benefited from this education. You have come here to a poor land with uneducated people and poverty to support us with education and training - not so you get something from us but for God, to try to get your passport. We hope we will get our passport too and meet you again there.

No matter what your beliefs, this is a pretty nice sentiment. I was genuinely touched. Even if I could not understand his words directly, I could tell enough from his sentiment and sense his conviction in his beliefs to feel honoured and moved by his words.

Dibate - View of Destayehu's fruit farm - a farmer from a previous project who has achieved great things!

Walking in Dibate - the loads people carry - I wouldn't last.

Meeting with some Farmer Field School group members in Dibate. We drew quite a crowd. The woman on the left exclaimed that I was the first white person she'd ever seen. If she judges white people by our encounter, I suspect she thinks we're dirty dirty bags, who are always scribbling stuff down, are kind of rude, speak a strange sounding language, and like to take pictures

Coke and Bananas

Here I am in Beles and we're in a town with network coverage so I'm unexpectedly using an internet stick. It's flipping hot. I guess actually it hasn't been awful at night, no wait, it depends. I can't keep track. My first night out of Addis, in Finote Selam, I had to sleep with a cold compress on. Let it snow! Then when we arrived in Dibate, I thought I might not last an hour. Luckily it was Sunday and I could nap for much of the afternoon - part of efforts in cold and other oddness fighting.  By night it was cool and I had one of the greatest night's sleep of my life (after 2 of the worst ever).

In Beles it's pretty warm - no breeze is the problem in the room. There is a fan but it's running because of the generator so that won't last - and it's not helping much, I'm definitely sweating as I type. The electricity actually came back on in the town about an hour after our arrival but the place we're staying isn't connected for some reason. And they're out of water. I took a bucket shower with the water we were allocated which was a great relief.

Right, so the subject line. I haven't officially been sick, I mean, not really. Well I had my horrible cold, which is mostly gone except I still blow my nose a lot. Anyway, my stomach is just off. I managed to avoid Ethiopian food in the style of injera and other all the way until today actually. I just tried a little shiro. It wasn't the worst. The first day in Dibate though, I thought I would puke at the smell of it. I've been eating bananas and drinking coke. Sometimes I throw in bread, peanut and eggs. I also scored a papaya - so good - and had a mango. I'm supplementing with Cliff bars. Totally nutritious right? Here's the kicker - I didn't have coffee today. Yesterday I forced down a cup and the day before that, I could only mange 3 sips. Whaaaaat? I'm sure it's nothing.

I've had some good field visits that maybe I'll write about another time. I'm supposed to be trying to finish a report right now. Oh and I've been ridiculously filthy. It's the dry season and the dust is so bad. My clothes are full of dirt and by the end of the day (who am I kidding, by the start of the day) my shins and ankles are filthy somehow under my pants! I used the tiniest amount of water to bathe yesterday - there wasn't really any water, so maybe I used 4 cups. I thought I got pretty clean...I think I just couldn't see in the dark. When I come back, double check - it probably won't be a tan.

Special Tea

Well today is Friday. It's been a few days since I left home and it feels a little like forever and at the same time like I still have so far to go. Probably because I literally do have so far to go. We start our driving adventure tomorrow. It's a two day drive to get from Addis Ababa to Dibate. I think the paved road ends about 3 hours (or less) outside of Addis. This is unbelievably my fourth trip to Dibate and Guba. Seems kind of nuts really.

I'm looking forward to seeing some of the same people I've met before. That's always exciting for me. To remember people's faces and stories and meet them again, find out how they are doing and what is changing for them. I'm trying to focus on those positives when I accidentally slip out of the present and think of the future. If I think about anything else, it's kind of all overwhelming.

Thus far, I have completely avoided Ethiopian food. That will end tomorrow, this I am acutely aware of. Hmm actually, maybe I can stretch it to Sunday. I've had pizza, spaghetti, the fruit smoothie juices of my dreams (that probably counts as Ethiopian) and pancakes. Tonight I'm supposed to go for Indian food with my old boss who happens to be in town for work as well. I am not looking forward to getting reacquainted with my old friend Shiro - but it's going to happen so just go with it, right? I have peanut butter as a back up. 

As I think I mentioned before, I have a cold and it kind of really sucks. I'm going through tons of kleenx and toilet paper because of it. I guess there are worse reasons to go through tons of toilet paper...but I digress. This morning, my colleague proposed I drink some special tea. We took a break and instead of my usual macchiato (oh my god I've only had one macchiato today - ahhhhhhhhhhh) um, I had the special tea. It has honey, lemon, ginger, tea and alcohol of some kind. It was so good. There was about 2 tablespoons too much honey it but it comes layered, like my beloved spris juice, so you just don't stir it all the way and it stays not so so sweet. I'm hoping I can get another one as it did help and I didn't notice the booze.

Well that's it for now. I won't have internet for a week, which is kind of freaking me out because I've appreciated all of your support. And I have work to do that would benefit from ye old interweb. Nevertheless, onwards and upwards. Gotta prep for a meeting with some Dutch guy from a University we're partnering with. And by prep I mean, blow my nose 55 more times.

Did I mention I'm drinking about 4L of water a day? I'm not exaggerating. Oh and my colleague told me to relax so maybe it's time for a quiet meditation.

Magic

I've just been informed by a couple people back home that the Conservative party of Canada is magic and the best and oh so amazing. This is great news for me. I honestly don't know which government is worse between my current host country and my home. Okay I do, no wait I don't - Canada is at least supposed to be a real democracy so doesn't it make it worse that this is all happening? Oh it's so hard to tell which way is up.

My favourite quote yet - "Yesterday, Finance Minister Joe Oliver even implied they were the fight-against-climate-change party." Heyo! Unicorns for everyone.

I guess the fact that this government funded institution is "allowed" to publish an article such as the following, means Canada wins. I just feel like if Harper wins again, Canada is going to continue losing (and yes, we are losing). 
http://www.cbc.ca/news/business/canada-s-truthiest-election-campaign-begins-don-pittis-1.3043785
http://www.cbc.ca/news/politics/joe-oliver-s-promises-kept-budget-ignore-the-sleight-of-hand-1.3043145
I haven't taken any photos yet really but since I suggested there might be some here, I'm including a photo of my pizza from last night. It's super greasy, like many politicians (not you Paul Dewar, you're my hero).

In Case You Are Wondering

http://www.aljazeera.com/news/2015/04/anti-isil-rally-turns-violent-ethiopia-150422151713828.html

http://www.aljazeera.com/news/2015/04/ethiopia-mourns-christian-nationals-killed-isil-150421192442742.html

I'm fine but there has been no power since about 7 pm last night. Country wide. My hotel has a generator and therefore still internet as well. The CPAR office has a generator for power but not internet (or something).

Some have suggested the power is off because it's the only way to stop people from watching non state-sponsored tv. Elections are coming up but I'm pretty sure there is only one candidate. 

Yeah, I totally crashed about 10 minutes after writing that entry.

Now I'm awake again.

Made It

Well here I am in sunny Addis Ababa. I arrived on a day of protest to mourn the deaths of the Ethiopians killed in Libya in connection with IS/ISIL/ISIS. The streets near my hotel, perhaps as a result of this, are very quiet. I received a travel advisory from the travel agency that booked my flight, once I got here. Since I don't intend to attend any of the protests, I think things are fine.

Because I really don't know what more to say about that, I'll carry on with my post as originally planned. My flight was smooth - thanks to my frequent flying, my silver status with air canada (which gets you nothing!) got me something. My bag was tagged priority and so came out on a different belt (not a big deal when you spend half an hour in the visa line anyway) and I got priority boarding. That was pretty nice I suppose. Although, had I spent more time waiting to board, I might have seen my old Humber classmate who was on the same flight! As it ended up, he only noticed me as we were on the bus to Bole International Airport. He was off to Malawi so we only had a few minutes to catch up. It was a nice surprise though.

I guess I've only been here for four hours and so far I almost accidentally bought 2 kilos of tomatoes (I wanted the 2L water - no excuses on my part), have had a macchiato - which had a heart on the foam, and seen a bunch of familiar faces. The little restaurant next to the hotel has all the same staff - whether they recognize me I don't know but it's kind of nice to recognize them. The owner gave me a quality plastic bag after noticing my 2 2L bottles of water and 3 mangoes were tearing through the one I'd been given during the almost 2kg tomato incident. The USD is strong and so far it seems only the entry visa has gone up in price. Otherwise I've spent $2 on 4L of water, 3 mangoes, a macchiato and an Ambo sparkling water. I haven't yet been called ferenji - it's been all nice welcomes and just happy.

I don't feel the worst but I don't feel the best. Perhaps and afternoon nap...and a work out after I work on my report? So far I'm thinking walking the 4 flights of stairs in Addis altitude counts for my fitness challenge...objections? Didn't think so.

My colleagues picked me up from the airport rather than leaving it in the hands of the hotel guys who last time didn't have a sign and so eventually I gave up and they spent 3 hours waiting...how was that ever going to work? It was nice to be greeted and welcomed by Endris and Aklilu for sure.

Anyway, time to take a crack at that report and/or fall asleep.

I look pretty fresh for coming off a 14 hour flight but I'm too tired to take a photo of myself to prove it.

Gotta Get My Greens

As many of you know, I got a little ill on my last trip through Ethiopia (okay, yes, thanks for the reminder Fi, I get sick every time) but last time was worse. I mean, the first time was a cold and I got loopy because I was put on a bunch of meds. No biggie. Then the 2nd time it was super minor food poisoning that landed me in the hospital only because my colleagues were super concerned. Last time, I was really ill but again, just the old 24 hour food poisoning - 8 hours of active illness really. Point is, it left me with my a shaky relationship with my trusty and beloved shiro.

The chick pea based dish is my go to in Ethiopia when I'm outside of the capital, Addis Ababa. It's delicious. It still is but my mind and stomach are not so sure. I took a test run with some friends this past week to try to get myself back in the game. It went, well it went. I had some uneasy queasiness but once I chased my dinner with a black bean korean fish-shaped treat, I pretty much felt okay. I'm admittedly a little concerned but it's going to be totally fine. I just stocked up on cliff bars and stuff like that. I'm going to pack some peanut butter and hope for the best. I figure if I can drink Ambo (best sparkling water in the world), drink avocado smoothies, eat egg pizza with honey and drink macchiatos, when I have the chance, I'll be set. Plus there is that bean breakfast meal I discovered last time. It's not going to take me 10 years to get over this one like it did with mangoes. The reality is, I don't have a choice.

When I'm travelling with work, my vegetable intake is often pretty darn low so I splurged on broccoli this week and ate a beet and arugula salad the other night. Gotta get my greens while I can! I know, it's only 3 weeks but sometimes it feels like longer because it's such a change from the routine. Going to have to figure out how to not lose my jump shot, basketball, running and biking legs. So much sitting to come.

There you go. If you're new to my blog, it's probably going to go like that - starts off with an idea and well just carries on as I please. I try to include pictures because who doesn't like a visual.

I wonder if this building will be done!!!

Oh and there is now electricity in Guba...I have a doomsday scenario for that town but I'm hoping I'll be proven wrong! Perhaps the beer will be even colder!

Pictures

Well since I can't sleep and am sorting through work photos anyway, how about I post some fun ones here. I was waking up at 4:45...then 4:48...then 5:00 and then...2:30 am?! Work is going to be fun tomorrow if I don't run myself so ragged that I have to sleep through the night.

Anyway, I can't say these are necessarily some of my favourite photos because I don't know what I'm going to post yet. But I do know I'm leading with spris juice (an my colleague Aklilu in the background). Apologies if I've posted this before (I know I posted something similar the first time I was in Ethiopia) but this stuff is just so dang good. Avocado, guava, mango and fresh squeezed lime.

Nkhotakota, Malawi...dry season is almost over

Nanana take me home!

Flying into Addis Ababa

That's your birth kit ladies and gentlemen - sorry for the graphic nature but not really - it's legitimately life saving

Yeah yeah I saw zebras - helps when you drive past the Serengeti

Group of farmers we met with...they asked so I obliged

More farmers we met with in Tanzania 

A road to a village in Bunda, Tanzania

The surrounding view from some farmers' fields (TZ)

Pretty sure my boss got the FFS group to laugh

I had no idea this was what a jacaranda tree looked like - it's beautiful

Yes! Kids laughing. Success

Going to go try to catch the sunrise.

Water

Those of you who have lived with me probably know I have a thing about water. It makes me quite literally crazy ("mentally deranged, especially as manifested in a wild or aggressive way") to watch it wasted down the drain. Taps running while water heats up, cools down, teeth are brushed, people are distracted, dishes are washed and rinsed. But I waste water as much as the next guy or well I certainly waste water and I am always reminded that I could do better, a lot better, when I am in Ethiopia, Malawi or Tanzania.

Water is a challenge in each of these countries. Not for everyone and not all the time but for many people, much of the time, I would say it's certainly not as easy as turning on a tap.

When I was in Bunda, Tanzania, the hotel I was in had a bucket in the shower, so I easily collected water when I showered. I noticed that by the end of my shower, which didn't include heating up water time because I didn't want a hot shower, I had almost a full bucket of water, clean water - no soap or shampoo or conditioner in it. The next day I figured I'd use that water for a bucket shower. I was actually shocked by how far it went (I didn't need the full bucket for my shower) and how much of that water would have just gone down the drain.

In Malawi, in every village we visited, the community asked for a borehole. If not for their village (as some had boreholes through a CPAR-run project) they asked for the other villages nearby who were also using their borehole. In some cases I thought to myself, "But your water source is only half a kilometre away, that's pretty good comparatively speaking." Wait a minute, if I stand up right now, I can be at a clean, potable water source in 5 steps. I can take 6 steps and be at a second source, and in 4 steps I can turn on a washing machine to do my washing. Comparatively speaking for Nkhotakota, Malawi I meant...

The place we stayed, well the whole town actually had a water problem so we had to either wake up around 4 am to get the morning water - so I heard - or stay up later to see if the water came back before bed. My colleagues semi-joked that it was best to wake up at 4 for water, bathe and then go back to sleep. I stock piled in the evening and then reused my water. Too much information? It was just a rinse and it was so hot there, 35-40 degrees, I probably almost would not have cared if someone else had used the water first.

I've been to Dibate, Ethiopia three times now. Guba is the one that is supposed to have the water issues (it does) but Dibate is supposed to have electricity and water. Every time I've been there, the town has had neither, for months.

So when I come home I become hyper-aware of water usage but never, ever do as well at conserving water here as I do in Tz or Malawi or Ethiopia. I go back to putting water on my toothbrush before brushing my teeth. I don't typically collect water when I shower - and when I do, the basin usually overflows and I actually don't know what to do with the extra water. I notice myself rinsing the sink when I could just wipe it down with a cloth. I don't use my grey water to water plants (okay I don't have any plants but still).

Anyway, I could do better.

Pretty sure she's laughing because she's thinking 'why on earth does this person want a photo of me washing my hands? And what a waste of the water I had to collect.'

Peace Out

I just wrote a blog for work. Thank goodness my boss is 'toning it down' as I just wrote it zip zap like that as I avoid putting the last of my things in my bag. Someone is bawling nearby which is a tad unsettling but I digress.

As usual, I am feeling a little emotional before my departure. Considering how often I have gone to and fro in my life, you would think I wouldn't mind leaving places so much. I guess part of it is never being sure you'll come back to a place and if you do, who will be there, who will you see again. The staff here at Kiboko Town Hotel in Lilongwe are actually mostly the same. I just encountered one woman who I remember from last year. I can't remember her name but her voice sounds so much like a friend of mine is South Africa. I recognized her by face but remember her by that voice.

Anyway, it's been a good journey. We'll see how I feel when I'm back hibernating in my basement. I'm feeling tired already and my cookoo flight hasn't started yet. I'm looking forward to tap water, coffee, friends and family, wine, my bicycle, toilet paper, spinach, sweatpants, physical activity and going unnoticed. I will miss colleagues (some more than others), mangoes, cheap beer, going to sleep at 930, seeing Nissan 1400s around, sunshine, quiet streets, passenger bicycles, jacaranda trees, flame trees, mango trees and I'm sure other things but I gotta go.

See you when I see you, whoever the heck is reading this.

Check Yourself Before You Wreck Yourself

I make assumptions all the time. I am particularly sensitive about certain things. Nearing the end of my journey, I am typically even more sensitive and judgmental. Call it fatigue, call it culture shock, call it whatever you want - it led me to make the following assumptions.

1 - the country manager in Malawi doesn't like vegetables

2 - my colleagues in Nkhotakota are not hospitable

Here's what happened. In our meals together, the country manager didn't eat the carrots on his plate and didn't eat the cooked greens, let's call it Swiss chard, on his plate. I thought 'hey this guy doesn't eat vegetables! he's just like the men I read about in my reports not eating vegetables, only wanting meat because that's what 'real' men eat! I can't believe this, he's been with CPAR for years, he should be up on his nutrition and open to consuming vegetables.'

This is what I found out. I said 'hey, you don't like vegetables?' and he said 'what?' so I said, 'I noticed you never eat the vegetables' and he said 'oh I love vegetables, I eat them all the time, just not when I'm travelling in the field, I don't trust the preparation, I usually only eat fried things here.' Oops, just like me and meat in Ethiopia. Frankly I think he's being hypersensitive. I ate the vegetables and was fine. BUT to each their own and that's a totally legit reason. My bad, what a jerk (me I mean).

Lunch time in Nkhotakota. The country manager and I get dropped off at some cultural restaurant. I ask the guys 'hey aren't you eating here too?' - umm no, we're going somewhere else. Oh, I can't eat there too? 'No, we don't want you to see where we eat.' Maybe, in one of my finer moments of this trip, it's possible I may have muttered a sarcastic 'Your hospitality is incredible' - In other countries, we usually all eat together, so I'm thinking 'what a bunch of jerks!'

Next day, I was in the field with some of the guys and when we came back to town we found the country manager and program manager at the restaurant I had eaten at the day before. The guys said (more or less) 'we're going to go somewhere else for lunch, you can come eat with us' and I said 'oh really? that'd be great' and they said 'we just didn't want to go their with our boss.' In the end, I didn't get to eat with them because I got told to stay there and eat but at least I learned the reason behind the perceived lack of hospitality the day before. I really wanted to just go eat beans and nsima with those guys. Oh well, maybe next time.

I think Malawi always gets a grumpier, less open version of me because of fatigue and the heat. It's a lot of assessing and interpreting situations, and I'm sure I get it wrong a bazillion times. I have no good concluding sentence here so I'll end with a photo

That's Lake Malawi - it's dry season - the rains should come soon but who can say with climate change. This is the view from a fishing village that is in CPAR's project catchment area. I may blog about the project later.

Inhumane

That's really the only way to describe my trip from Tanzania to Malawi. I won't write at length about it but I left Bunda District at 12:30 pm on Thursday and arrived in Lilongwe on Friday at about noon Malawi time (we're one hour closer here until y'all change your clocks back). You can DRIVE from Tanzania to Malawi in that time.

Here are some highlights of the journey - it wasn't all bad.

2 out of 3 flights were on time

I had a macchiato in the Addis airport...but had to pay 4 USD for it.

I went for dinner in Dar by the ocean, which I could not see but could smell (mostly in a good way). We ate grilled calamari for dinner and it came with 4 green beans. All was delicious.

We weren't allowed back into the Dar airport at midnight. As my boss tried to work the security guards and charm them with her Swahili, I eventually lay down on the pavement to sleep. Thinking I was Jean's daughter, security relented presumably as a result of the pathetic mzungu lying on the ground to sleep and we got inside to rest. I have no shame.

This is what a 3 am flight taking off looks like - I would advise you just ask me for more details if you're really curious and avoid booking one yourself at all costs.

That photo took so long to load I forgot what I was talking about.

Places I caught some sleep on my journey:

The departure lounge in Dar...almost missed boarding because they boarded 25 minutes earlier than they said so I was still asleep. Not sure how I woke up - probably the 'final boarding call' announcement.

The flight from Dar to Addis - 2 seats to myself =1 hour of  numb leg sleeping

Flight from Addis to Lilongwe - 3 seats to myself = 1.5 hours of numb leg sleeping

I totally would have fallen asleep on the pavement outside the dar airport too if they hadn't let us in so quick after that.

Then we both almost fell asleep at the CPAR Malawi office when the Country Manager was talking because well that journey was nonsense and as I said, entirely inhumane.

Lilongwe, Malawi - aka Nostalgia City

Although I often say CPAR works in East Africa, Malawi is technically in Southern Africa and for me, that means this town is chock full of reminders of South Africa and Lesotho. Although it is actually quite different from both of those countries there are constant reminders of my time in SA and Lesotho...especially Lesotho. I have already spotted a number of Nanana take me home's...that is Nissan 1400s - Nissan 1/2 tons - bakkies and most fondly Notorious B.I.G. Le Roux. If you're newer to this blog, that was the truck I co-owned in Lesotho. I love it. Google Nissan 1400 for photos and you probably will too. Seeing them around warms my heart, and if you ever want to know more about it just ask, I can talk about that dream vehicle at length (as many of you are already painfully aware).

Speaking of Le Roux...I went to Shoprite today (a South African grocery chain) and it was essentially a trip down memory lane. There was J.C. Le Roux in the booze section - for all your sparkling wine needs and the inspiration for Notorious' last name. There were bottles of Odd Bins and Nederberg Baronne. There were dried fruit dainties, appletiser, rusks and overall the familiar hustle and bustle of a grocery store after pay day (month end).

Particularly exciting for me was buying carrots and granny smith apples! Fruit and vegetables. What a treat! Unfortunately Malawi is not cheap, stuff is expensive here so it's tough to stock up. Also disappointing thus far is the Savanna Dry drought that seems to be taking over. None at the upstairs bar at our hostel I guess you'd call it - Kiboko Town Hotel if you want to look it up. None at Shoprite - the shelf was totally empty - and only 3 or 4 at the bar downstairs. I intend to drink them all...except that place is only open until 5 and they really overcharge so it's going to be tough to juggle.

Anyway, this town is a sleepy one and typically makes you feel sorry for the country as a whole - I can't quite explain it but it's like Malawi is just missing something. But the memories come flooding back and it's hard for me to not get overwhelmed. Probably not great that it's my last stop. It's hot here today and where I'm headed next - Nkhotakota - we're looking at 30-35 degree weather. I'll try to post some photos but internet here is hit and miss. It's Saturday now and should be my day off but there is work to be done...I wonder if a Savanna would help. Only one way to find out.

Happy November - what? it feels like July!

(oh if you want to read a work blog...something I wrote got posted on cpar.ca - I did not sign my name to it but it got put in there anyway)

Photos

Main Street of Bunda

Sweetly Decorated Passenger Bike 

Walking Down Bunda Main Street